Chidambaram Nataraja Temple is a magical, ancient, and mystical place that feels like stepping into Vedic times from thousands of years ago or hundreds of years in the future! Spread across a 40-acre complex, it features powerful shrines, a massive holy tank, Shivaganga, towering gopurams, elephants parading through the temple and vibrant rituals performed by the Dikshitars! It was quite a surreal experience spending time in this temple complex pulsating with Vedic vibration.
History of the Chidambaram temple complex and Pancha Bhoota Sthalams
Worship at Chidambaram dates back to ancient times, with references in Sangam literature and 7th-century Tevaram hymns by Saivite saints. The present temple complex took shape under the Chola dynasty, particularly from the 10th century CE, when Chidambaram became an important Chola capital.
For us, the journey to Chidambaram had been brewing from a while, a journey to space/ether (akasha) element temple in the Pancha Bhoota Sthalams. This is the temple where the akasha element is worshipped. In the sanctum sanctorum, behind the curtains there is an idol and garland worship happens but it is all referring to the formless aspect. It is space – that which allows everything to happen but cannot be seen.
For the curious, these are the five principal Shiva temples where Shiva is worshipped as the five elements.
Earth (Pṛthvī) – Ekambareswarar, Kanchipuram
Water (Āpas) – Jambukeswarar, Tiruvanaikaval
Fire (Agni) – Arunachaleswarar, Tiruvannamalai
Air (Vāyu) – Srikalahasteeswara, Srikalahasti
Space (Ākāśa) – Nataraja, Chidambaram
Lord Narasimha Temples
We started out by visiting three powerful Narasimha tamples; Narasimha is Vishnu’s fierce avatar- it represents protective wrath. These are the three Narasimha temples we visited: Poovarasankuppam, Parikkal, and Abishegapakkam. These three are often visited together in a single-day trip to worship Lord Narasimha.
For the story of Lord Narasimha: Vishnu took up this avatar to kill Hiraṇyakaśipu- a powerful demon king who received boons that made him seemingly invincible. This led him to arrogantly declare himself supreme, persecuting devotees and especially his son Prahlāda for worshipping Viṣṇu. To protect dharma and Prahlāda’s devotion, Viṣṇu manifested as Narasimha, a half-man, half-lion form, appearing at twilight on a threshold, placing Hiraṇyakaśipu on his lap, and killing him with his claws—perfectly circumventing the demon’s boons while restoring cosmic order.
Inspiration and Practical Details about Chidambaram
Coming back to Chidambaram, we stayed at Lakshmi Narsimman’s Airbnb which served as the perfect place to be. The south gate of the temple is about 1.5km from this BnB and if you’re okay walking, this place would work as it’s in a nice, quiet locality. Lunch was had at Shri Krishna Vilas and there are a lot of small joints around for delicious south Indian fare.
Here’s a good layout and description of the various halls and areas in the temple complex. The moment you enter the complex, the ethereal nature of the temple is palpable and as you near the sanctum sanctorum, it draws you in. For me, the Adi Moolnathar shrine really called out and sitting around it was instant meditation. I found a good description of this on Vak’s blog:
Most visit the Chidambaram temple for Nataraja. But the “Moolavar” main deity of the temple is “Adi Moolanathar”. Much before Lord Shiva appeared here in the form of Nataraja he has been here as a Swayambu Lingam. The origin and date of this Lingam is unknown. It is believed that this Lingam is the energy source for most Lingams in the land. Hence, the name Moolanathar (Lord of the source). As it has been here from the beginning (Adi) of time it is known as Adi Moolanathar.
I was inspired to paint a shivalinga or Adi Moolanathar after coming back to Tiruvannamalai and this is what emerged:
Thillai Kaali Amman Kovil– Goddess Kali
We concluded our journey at Thillai Kāli Amman Kovil which is in the outskirts of Chidambaram. According to legend, Goddess Kāli moved to Thillai Kāli Amman Kovil after losing a celestial dance contest with Lord Śiva at Chidambaram, witnessed by Viṣṇu, Brahmā, and other deities. When Śiva performed the Ūrdhva Tāṇḍava, raising his leg high, Kāli could not mirror the posture and accepted defeat, symbolising that Śiva and Śakti are complementary and inseparable. Kāli’s fierce energy was later pacified by Brahmā through Vedic chants and praise, after which she manifested here as Thillai Amman, depicted with four faces, embodying transformed and balanced power.
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